(MARRS-RX7) Rotor question

Owen Schefer owen.schefer
Tue Mar 17 19:54:35 CET 2015


Not sure yet they are still working on it.  The guy from the region down
there is Pepe (racerpepe at yahoo.com)  I am not sure how close they are to it
but the more people that wanted to do it might make it cheaper to do....

On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 2:50 PM, Mark Wemple <markwemple at yahoo.com> wrote:

> What would the conversion entail?
>
> Mark D. Wemple, Esq.
> 359 Dun Robbin Drive
> Severna Park, Maryland 21146
>
>
> Tel. (410) 987-5831/ Fax. (410) 987-1410
>
>
>
>   On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 2:22 PM, Owen Schefer via Spec7 <
> spec7 at specrx7.com> wrote:
>
>
> I use to have 2 sets of bearings one set  in the new spare rotors ready to
> go on pre packed in little zip lock bags.  Then when the rotors on the car
> cracked I could remove and install new ones quick.  I then removed that set
> of bearings, repacked them and put them in the new set of rotors for the
> next time...  That way you are not rushing to repack bearings at the track.
>
>
> FYI - The IT7R guys are working on a kit for second gen brakes - while an
> investment in the conversion I bet the return on investment would be pretty
> fast as you wouldn't be replacing rotors every other weekend.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 2:08 PM, John Maslin via Spec7 <spec7 at specrx7.com>
> wrote:
>
> Matt is right on all points.  I finally got the Harbor Freight press kit.
> Until then I used old races to hammer the good races in.  It worked but was
> harder.
>
> On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 7:55 AM, Matthew Stutt via Spec7 <
> spec7 at specrx7.com> wrote:
>
>
> For what it's worth, I never ruined a bearing race during installation or
> removal.  For the install I used a Harbor Freight aluminum bearing race
> press tool
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html>.
> For removal I used a very large punch.  Bearings aren't what I would call
> cheap, especially given how often rotors need to be replaced, so I would
> recommend at least trying to remove them from your old rotors.  Worst case
> you lose 10 minutes of your time.
>
> Great point about carrying loaded spare rotors.  You will need them.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 3/16/15 10:42 PM, johnnythegreek58 via Spec7 wrote:
>
> I would buy new bearings. Chances are they will get damaged on removal.
> That way you start off fresh if your not sure of there condition or can
> see signs of wear.
> Also bring AT LEAST one full set of front brake rotor bearings incase you
> crack a rotor while racing and need to replace. Its a pretty easy fix and
> common issue.
> Johnny The Greek #27
> On Mar 16, 2015 9:26 PM, "John Maslin via Spec7" <spec7 at specrx7.com>
> wrote:
>
>  The front rotor and hub are one assembly, not separate, which means you
> have to remove the bearing and race from your old hub to repack and
> reinstall in the new hub, or replace them.  Many of us use Brembos as a
> higher quality choice.  Make sure you get the one for 12a cars.  The 84-85
> 13b optioned cars have different brakes.  To remove the bottom caliper
> bracket bolt, use a 14mm box wrench and wedge in a screwdriver against
> it to maintain leverage.  You may not need the screwdriver if you have a
> thin offset box wrench.
> John
>
> On Mon, Mar 16, 2015 at 7:34 PM, Michael Root via Spec7 <spec7 at specrx7.com
> > wrote:
>
> When replacing the front rotors & pads do I need just new rotors or do I
> need the "rotor and hub assembly"? I would assume just the rotors, but I
> haven't done this job yet and I'm usually wrong about parts...
>
>  --
>  v/r
> Michael J. Root, PMP
>
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> --
> --
> M. Stutt
>
>
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