(MARRS-RX7) Rotor question

Matthew Stutt matthew
Tue Mar 17 19:55:45 CET 2015


I can't speak to the cost of the brake parts, but it would require a 
switch to 15" wheels.



On 3/17/15 2:54 PM, Owen Schefer via Spec7 wrote:
> Not sure yet they are still working on it.  The guy from the region 
> down there is Pepe (racerpepe at yahoo.com <mailto:racerpepe at yahoo.com>) 
>  I am not sure how close they are to it but the more people that 
> wanted to do it might make it cheaper to do....
>
> On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 2:50 PM, Mark Wemple <markwemple at yahoo.com 
> <mailto:markwemple at yahoo.com>> wrote:
>
>     What would the conversion entail?
>     Mark D. Wemple, Esq.
>     359 Dun Robbin Drive
>     Severna Park, Maryland 21146
>
>
>     Tel. (410) 987-5831 <tel:%28410%29%20987-5831>/ Fax. (410)
>     987-1410 <tel:%28410%29%20987-1410>
>
>
>
>     On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 2:22 PM, Owen Schefer via Spec7
>     <spec7 at specrx7.com <mailto:spec7 at specrx7.com>> wrote:
>
>
>     I use to have 2 sets of bearings one set  in the new spare rotors
>     ready to go on pre packed in little zip lock bags.  Then when the
>     rotors on the car cracked I could remove and install new ones
>     quick.  I then removed that set of bearings, repacked them and put
>     them in the new set of rotors for the next time... That way you
>     are not rushing to repack bearings at the track.
>
>     FYI - The IT7R guys are working on a kit for second gen brakes -
>     while an investment in the conversion I bet the return on
>     investment would be pretty fast as you wouldn't be replacing
>     rotors every other weekend.
>
>
>
>     On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 2:08 PM, John Maslin via Spec7
>     <spec7 at specrx7.com <mailto:spec7 at specrx7.com>> wrote:
>
>         Matt is right on all points.  I finally got the Harbor Freight
>         press kit. Until then I used old races to hammer the
>         good races in.  It worked but was harder.
>
>         On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 7:55 AM, Matthew Stutt via Spec7
>         <spec7 at specrx7.com <mailto:spec7 at specrx7.com>> wrote:
>
>
>             For what it's worth, I never ruined a bearing race during
>             installation or removal.  For the install I used a Harbor
>             Freight aluminum bearing race press tool
>             <http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html>.
>             For removal I used a very large punch. Bearings aren't
>             what I would call cheap, especially given how often rotors
>             need to be replaced, so I would recommend at least trying
>             to remove them from your old rotors. Worst case you lose
>             10 minutes of your time.
>
>             Great point about carrying loaded spare rotors.  You will
>             need them.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>             On 3/16/15 10:42 PM, johnnythegreek58 via Spec7 wrote:
>>             I would buy new bearings. Chances are they will get
>>             damaged on removal.
>>             That way you start off fresh if your not sure of there
>>             condition or can see signs of wear.
>>             Also bring AT LEAST one full set of front brake rotor
>>             bearings incase you crack a rotor while racing and need
>>             to replace. Its a pretty easy fix and common issue.
>>             Johnny The Greek #27
>>             On Mar 16, 2015 9:26 PM, "John Maslin via Spec7"
>>             <spec7 at specrx7.com <mailto:spec7 at specrx7.com>> wrote:
>>
>>                 The front rotor and hub are one assembly, not
>>                 separate, which means you have to remove the bearing
>>                 and race from your old hub to repack and reinstall in
>>                 the new hub, or replace them.  Many of us use
>>                 Brembos as a higher quality choice.  Make sure you
>>                 get the one for 12a cars.  The 84-85 13b optioned
>>                 cars have different brakes.  To remove the bottom
>>                 caliper bracket bolt, use a 14mm box wrench and wedge
>>                 in a screwdriver against it to maintain leverage. You
>>                 may not need the screwdriver if you have a thin
>>                 offset box wrench.
>>                 John
>>
>>                 On Mon, Mar 16, 2015 at 7:34 PM, Michael Root via
>>                 Spec7 <spec7 at specrx7.com <mailto:spec7 at specrx7.com>>
>>                 wrote:
>>
>>                     When replacing the front rotors & pads do I need
>>                     just new rotors or do I need the "rotor and hub
>>                     assembly"? I would assume just the rotors, but I
>>                     haven't done this job yet and I'm usually wrong
>>                     about parts...
>>
>>                     -- 
>>                     v/r
>>                     Michael J. Root, PMP
>>
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>>
>>
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>>
>>
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>
>             -- 
>             --
>             M. Stutt
>
>
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-- 
--
M. Stutt

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